Too much paving

Removing planted borders and replacing them with large areas of paving affects the capacity of our gardens to absorb rainwater and increases the risk of flooding. If the majority of gardens in a road install impermeable paving (such as in front gardens to provide parking for cars) it can have a significant impact on the amount of surface runoff, which then increases the likelihood of flooding. But there are many types of permeable surfaces which minimise the impact on water absorption, such as grass reinforcement (protects grass from being damaged by vehicle wheels), permeable block pavers, or matrix (or cellular) pavers.

Removing areas between the paving provides space for planting pockets, which act as drainage areas. Low-growing, resilient plants such as creeping thyme (Thymus serpyllum), heath pearlwort (Sagina subulata), Corsican mint (Mentha requienii), and creeping Jenny (Lysimachia nummularia) can be planted in these pockets to create interest and aid drainage. Another way to enable water to drain away is by using a permeable surface like gravel, which also provides areas for planting and a surface for car parking.

Not enough plants

Gardens with very few plants are more likely to have issues with flooding. Planted areas help water to filter into the ground so there is less runoff. Plants take up water and aerate the soil, enabling it to absorb more water. Evergreen plants require more water during the winter than deciduous plants, which will have lost their leaves, so it's a good idea to include evergreens in your planting scheme to help absorb water all year round. One study suggested that hedges consisting of yew (Taxus baccata), Cotoneaster franchetii, privet (Ligustrum ovalifolium) and western red cedar (Thuja plicata) had a good ability to absorb water.

Some trees and shrubs have high rates of evapo-transpiration (how they take up water and release it into the atmosphere). These are useful to plant in areas prone to flooding and, according to the RHS, include species such as Forsythia x intermedia and hawthorn (Crataegus monogyna).

Hard, compacted soil

When soil becomes compacted, it significantly affects its ability to absorb water. Instead of draining away through the ground, water runs straight over the surface, creating flooding problems. Avoid this problem by not walking on soil when it's wet, avoiding using heavy machinery, and installing paths or stepping stones across lawns.

To improve the condition of soil that has already become compacted, aerate lawns using a garden fork or lawn aerator, switch to no-dig gardening, plant a green manure on bare ground, or add an organic mulch that will help break down the soil structure as it becomes incorporated into the existing soil.

Too many garden buildings

If your plot includes large areas dedicated to garden buildings such as sheds or home offices, it can exacerbate drainage issues and lead to flooding. This risk is worth considering before you add buildings to the garden, but if you already have lots of ground covered with buildings, try installing a green roof to help absorb rainwater before it comes in contact with the ground. Water butts are an excellent way to harvest rainwater from buildings, and they provide a sustainable, free source of water for plants.

No water collection

A garden without water butts misses out on the opportunity to harvest rainwater. Water butts on a house can collect a large amount of water (24,000 litres or more a year), and there are many different sizes, including designs for small spaces and wall-mounted water butts. This prevents the need to use mains water for plants, and reduces the amount of rainwater that the earth needs to absorb, thereby helping to prevent flooding issues.

You Will Need

• Fleece
• Plastic sheet or bubblewrap
• Bricks
• 'Pot feet'

Step 1

Wet conditions kill more herbs in winter than the cold, so place container-grown perennials such as oregano, thyme, sage and rosemary in a sheltered position against a wall or the side of the house or garage. This will reduce the amount of rainfall hitting the pot by around 25 per cent.

Step 2

Avoid overwatering container-grown herbs by lifting each pot to assess its weight. If the compost is too dry, the pot will be light, so water the plant sparingly in the morning (not at night as the water may freeze). If the pot is heavy, the compost is too wet, so raise the pot off the ground to allow it to drain.

Step 3

Trim evergreen herbs into a dome shape (it's a good idea to remove any remaining flowers in the process). This will help to protect them from high winds or snow. Don't prune back too hard, as this will create deep cuts that may not heal.

Step 4

Raise terracotta pots off the ground, either standing them on bricks, 'pot feet' or on blocks of wood. This will expose the pots' drainage holes, allowing them to drain more freely than if placed directly on the floor. Because water expands when it freezes, this action may also prevent pots from cracking.

Step 5

Use horticultural fleece or hessian to protect container-grown olives and bay trees from hard frost. As well as wrapping the leaves, it's important to also fix a thick layer of bubble wrap around the pot itself, as the delicate plant roots may be touching the inside of the pot.

Step 6

Place basil and other tender herbs in a well-lit, frost-free position, but be wary of windowsills as temperatures much below 5°C will kill them. Avoid watering these plants in the evening so they don't have wet roots at night, and harvest basil leaves from the top, not from the sides. Open greenhouses and cold frames during the day if temperatures are warm.

More dog advice:

• 12 tips for a dog-friendly garden
• Plants toxic to dogs

1. Don't overthink it

Monty’s first and perhaps most important piece of advice is to relax. “The main lesson I would say to everybody is don’t overthink it. Don’t worry about it by and large.” Dogs and gardens are perfectly capable of coexisting. The odd bit of digging or trampling is all part of the fun – and really, who among us hasn’t secretly enjoyed a little help from an enthusiastic canine assistant?

2. Set clear boundaries from the start

According to Monty, “dogs are creatures of habit and they pick up body language.” If you want your dog to avoid certain areas, make it clear from the outset. Give them a space to romp – a lawn or a path – and keep your precious flowerbeds as calm, quiet zones. “If you have an area of beds where you want them just to lie quietly, make sure they always lie quietly from an early age and then let them have a lawn or take them for a walk and they have a good time.”

3. Don't panic about dangerous plants

Worried about toxic plants? Monty’s advice is reassuring: “As regards dangerous plants, that isn’t something I worry about too much.” Most dogs aren’t interested in munching on poisonous things. The main exception is yew (Taxus), which can be harmful. “If you see a puppy chewing some yew... don’t panic. Just take it out of its mouth.” A little vigilance goes a long way.

4. Never throw sticks

“The one thing though that I don’t do anymore at all is don’t throw sticks for dogs.” After a frightening incident with a stick injury, Monty recommends finding safer alternatives for play. “Ned has never had a stick thrown for him.” Opt for balls or safe dog toys instead.

5. Flexible paths and planting

If your dog insists on making their own shortcuts, embrace it! Monty suggests, “Have temporary paths of gravel or bark and then you can move plants, you can move the paths and the whole thing becomes more fluid.” And a final tip: “Don’t plant anything precious on the corner where two paths cross.” Accept a bit of canine creativity, and your garden will thank you.

Pruning Group 3 includes the Clematis viticella hybrids and Clematis texensis, as well as the lovely variety 'Bill MacKenzie'. Clematis that flower in spring or early summer are classified in Groups 1 and 2.

Winter-pruning clematis simply involves cutting back all stems to 30cm above ground. Growth can be quite rapid once the soil starts to warm and day temperatures rise, so keep on top of tying in new shoots.

You will need:

The right tool is essential for this task - for more information read our guide to tools for pruning. If you're looking to update your kit, our experts have been busy testing the best secateurs, so you can buy with confidence.

In a hurry? Here are the best buys from this test:

• Darlac Expert Bypass DP1030A
• Burgon and Ball Left Handed Bypass
• Niwaki GR Pro
• Felco 8 Bypass Secateurs

Follow our guide to winter-pruning clematis, below.

You Will Need

• Secateurs

Step 1

Untangle the mass of last year's growth from its support, cutting through any strings and removing ties that have been used for training. Lay the top growth on the ground.

Step 2

Roughly chop off the top growth, initially leaving the stems around 50cm long. Take care not to damage any developing buds or shoots. Cut up the prunings for compost.

Step 3

With the bulk of the growth out of the way, use the tips of your secateurs to cut back to a second or third node or pair of buds above ground level. Cut 3-5mm above the buds or node.

Group 3 clematis to grow

• Clematis viticella ‘Confetti’ – delicate pink flowers in July and September. Reaches a height of 2m

• Clematis ‘Pearl d’Azure’ – a popular old variety with sky blue flowers in July to September. Height 3m

• Clematis tangutica ‘Bill MacKenzie’ – small, bell-shaped yellow flowers in late summer followed by stunning fluffy seedheads. Height 4m

• Clematis ‘Ville de Lyon’ – two toned light and dark pink flowers from June to September. Height 3.5m

• Clematis ‘Gypsy Queen’ – large bright blue/purple flowers from August to October. Height 3m

Browse our list of 10 inspiring alternative ideas to woo your Valentine with this year.

Daffodils

Unfailingly cheery, a bunch of daffodils is seasonal and scented. Whether you pick some early daffodils from the garden to celebrate Valentine's, order a bouquet of scented narcissi from a UK flower farm or buy a pot of daffodils ready to bloom that can be replanted in the garden, you're giving a gift that has a low environmental impact while still making a romantic statement.

• Buy scented narcissi from Scilly Flowers or a potted flower basket from Thompson & Morgan

Hellebore

There are hundreds of varieties of hellebores to choose from, many of them flowering from February through to April. Their flowers come in shades including pink, purple, white and green. Although not a traditional Valentine's flower, a pot of hellebores will look beautiful year after year, either in a container or planted beneath trees alongside spring flowering bulbs. Why not gift a new hellebore each year and plant them in the garden as a permanent reminder of your love?

• Buy hellebores from Crocus or Beth Chatto

Cyclamen coum

Give a pot of bright cyclamen this Valentine's Day to help brighten up someone's garden until March. Cyclamen are perfect in containers alongside snowdrops and miniature daffodils, or planted beneath trees where they make colourful ground cover.

• Buy Cyclamen coum from Crocus or Thompson & Morgan

Iris reticulata

Miniature irises look pretty in containers, with their blue or purple flowers adding colour even on an overcast day. Popular varieties include 'George', which is a deep purple and 'Harmony', which has royal blue flowers. They'll come back next year, too.

• Buy Iris reticulata from Crocus or Thompson & Morgan

Sweet violet (Viola odorata)

This pretty perennial, which has small, strongly scented flowers, has been used in perfumes for centuries. This would make a thoughtful present for a gardener, ideal for a spot in light shade where it will light up dull areas and naturalise over time.

• Buy Viola odorata from Crocus or Waitrose Garden

String of hearts (Ceropegia woodii)

Known as string of hearts, because of its heart-shaped leaves, this house plant is a more subtle present than the traditional bunch of roses, and will last for several years.

• Buy string of hearts (Cerogpegia woodii) from Crocus or Houseplant

Anthurium (flamingo flower)

These exotic flowers produce bright blooms throughout the year, giving far more value than a bunch of flowers. Each flower lasts for around four to six weeks, and they are usually pink or red, but can also include shades such as orange and purple.

• Buy Anthurium from Crocus or Beards & Daisies

Witch hazel

Whether as a shrub for the garden, or a bunch of stems for a vase, witch hazel makes a cheering, fragrant gift. This deciduous shrub is in bloom between December and February. Once it's established in the garden, it will provide fragrant stems to cut and bring indoors.

• Buy witch hazel from Crocus or Thompson & Morgan

Orchid

Moth orchid (Phalaenopsis) is one of the easiest orchids to grow and makes a beautiful gift, with flowers that appear regularly throughout the year. Flower colours include pink, red, yellow, peach and purple, perfect for brightening rooms such as kitchens and bathrooms.

• Buy orchids from Crocus or Bloom & Wild

Hoya heart (Hoya kerrii)

House plant suppliers often have hoya hearts on sale, which are single leaves of Hoya kerrii planted in their own pot. Also known as the sweetheart plant this makes a small romantic gift for Valentine's Day. It's unlikely to ever grow into a full plant, however, so buy a whole Hoya kerrii plant if you want to make a lasting statement.

• Buy hoya heart from Houseplant or Thompson & Morgan

With a few exceptions, all of these jobs can be done in winter, when bare stems make the job of shaping shrubs and spotting diseased growth much easier.

Loppers, pruning saws and secateurs

Whether it's a pair of long-handled loppers, pruning saw or secateurs, using the right tool is essential for this task. For more information read our guide to tools for pruning, and if you're looking to update your kit, our experts have been busy testing the best pruning saws, the best secateurs and the best anvil loppers, so you can buy with confidence.

In a hurry? Here are some of the best buys from these tests:

• ARS PM-21 folding pruning saw
• Felco 640 pruning saw
• Darlac Expert Bypass DP1030A
• Niwaki GR Pro
• Felco 8 Bypass Secateurs
• Draper Deluxe Anvil Secateurs
• Corona Ratchet Cut Comfort Gel Anvil Secateurs
• Wolf Garten Telescopic Anvil Lopper
• Spear & Jackson Razorsharp Advantage Telescopic Ratchet Anvil Lopper

Related content:

• Key plants to prune in winter
• How to winter-prune trees and shrubs
• Tips for better pruning
• Apple tree diseases

We explain why you need to prune in winter and share tips on the best techniques, below.

Bigger harvests

Having established a framework, the object of pruning is to persuade the plants to maximise fruiting. This differs with various types of fruiting plant. With apples, you prune to promote fruiting spurs, with pears you open up the trees to ripen the wood.

On blackcurrants you remove old wood, while gooseberries, redcurrants and whitecurrants should have their stems shortened by a quarter and any sideshoots back to one to three buds.

Autumn-fruiting raspberries should have all stems cut back to the ground, then feed and mulch in spring. On summer-fruiting raspberries, cut out the canes that have already produced fruit, to leave the new canes that have been produced that year.

Establishing plants

When shrubs or trees are newly planted, it's important to encourage the formation of a good root system. New shrubs should be cut back to a few buds so that the plant can devote its energy to putting down roots in the first season. New fruit bushes should be thinned to just three branches. Newly planted trees should be pruned to reduce the 'sail' effect of top growth, preventing wind-rock.

Thinning out

On plants where growth is constantly renewed from ground level, the weak, spindly shoots should be removed, as well as some of the oldest stems. With plants such as hazel, the oldest shoots should be thinned out to prevent overcrowding. Simply remove large branches from older shrubs.

Training fruit trees

Having established the main framework by tying in major branches to the support, side shoots should be reduced to two or three buds to make short spurs. Much of the work should be done in August and September, but it can be continued into winter. Discover three ways to train a fruit tree.

Promoting summer blooms

Shrubs that flower after midsummer can produce flowers on new growth. They can be manipulated to ensure the flowers grow at the desired height. Branches can either be cut back hard or thinned into a nice shape. Large shrubs such as buddleia should be pruned hard to stop growth getting out of control, while smaller shrubs such as hardy fuchsias should be cut back to promote larger blooms.

Shaping up

Winter is the ideal time to assess and modify the shape and structure of almost any deciduous shrub whose canopy has become lopsided or whose branches are overcrowded in the centre.

Remove any stems that rub against each other, and aim to create an open-centred canopy that allows air to circulate freely. Use secateurs to cut stems that are up to 1cm in diameter, loppers on stems that are 1-2cm in diameter and a pruning saw on anything larger. Smaller stems can be cut flush with the branch from which they are being removed; those over 5cm in diameter should be left with a small knuckle – about 1cm of stem base – to aid wound healing.

Promoting health

Diseased branches should be pruned out to maintain the health of many trees and shrubs, removing any dead, dying or diseased branches. Apples and pears should be pruned to remove branches infected with canker, magnolias should have dead stems removed to control verticillium wilt. Don't prune plums and related species during winter – it can lead to the spread of silver-leaf disease.

The stems of Japanese maples often turn pale grey and strawy-brown when wind-damaged. Snip these out as soon as you see them, along with any stems that have been 'ring-barked' by disease lower down – you'll see a pale grey patch of stem rather than a deep purple-brown bark on coloured-leaved types, and the foliage above will lack vigour.

Aiding vigour

Pruning in this way removes weaker stems to promote stronger growth of existing stems, or removes existing stems altogether to encourage fresh, new growth.

Plants grown for their colourful winter stems, such as dogwood, Cornus alba, and white willow, Salix alba, should be cut back hard or 'stooled' in late winter or early spring, to around 15cm above ground level. Other shrubs should have the thinnest, spindliest growth removed. Only start hard pruning these plants a year or so after planting, to allow their roots to get down into rich, moist soil.

Alternatively, just prune out half the stems, removing the oldest and leaving the youngest for the winter spectacle.

Rejuvenate a tired shrub

It's a good idea to assess all your shrubs in winter, looking out for general tiredness and lack of vigour. This can often be attributed to hunger, in which case feeding and manuring in spring will help, but it may also be down to the age of the stems.

Shrubs like weigela and philadelphus benefit from having some of the older stems removed each year to encourage new, more productive ones to grow up. You can also do this pruning in late spring and early summer, after flowering.

Use loppers to cut back these old stems either to ground level or back to a point at which growth is emerging. Doing this annually will markedly improve the vigour of more mature shrubs.

Here's what to do:

Refresh edges and paths

Check the structure of raised beds and replace or repair any wood that has started to rot. For beds in grass, use a half-moon edging tool to cut crisp new edges, then reduce future maintenance by installing an edging strip which sits just below grass level so the mower can run over the top. Sweep paving and pressure wash if needed to remove dirt and algae that can make slabs slippery.

• Buy a half moon edging tool from B&Q

Clear old crop debris

Removing old crops is a traditional winter task, thought to prevent diseases and pests from building up. However, we now know that leaving old plants intact over winter creates homes for wildlife, including beneficial insects like ladybirds and lacewings, which eat aphids. What's more, leaving crops to rot slowly back into the earth mimics natural processes, and is good for the soil. If you need to clear beds for early planting then do so, but make sure you also leave some fallow until spring – this will benefit you in the long term as there will be more insect predators on hand when you need them. Dig up or rake off crops that have died, wilted, or bolted (run to seed) and put them on the compost heap. Put any diseased plant material in a ‘hot’ composter or your council green waste collection.

Remove weeds

Using a digging fork, lift all the roots of perennial weeds like couch grass, creeping buttercup, bindweed and nettles. Don't add these to the compost heap, compost them in old polythene sacks instead, turning over the sack top to exclude light, and leave them to rot down for at least a year. Clear annual weeds with a hoe, you may need to remove them to stop them regrowing in the soil. If seeds have already developed on the plants, put them in a ‘hot’ composter or leave out for your garden waste collection.

• Buy a digging fork from B&Q
• Buy a hoe from Harrod Horticultural

Spread mulch

Organic mulches, such as home-made compost or well-rotted manure, protect the soil from extremes of weather and will be taken deep into the ground by worms and other soil organisms, boosting soil health. Home composting your garden waste and leaves is a great way to create plenty of mulch, or you can buy in well-rotted manure or composted green waste (both should be at least six months old). Spread a layer at least 8cm thick. Avoid using manure where you’ll be growing root crops, particularly carrots, as this causes them to fork.

Warm the soil

Put light-excluding material on your beds to keep soil clean and weed-free, and to warm it up ready for spring sowing. Plastic weed membrane is available but it frays at the edge and results in small pieces of plastic entering the environment, and it's difficult to remove. Biodegradable weed control matting, made of materials such as hessian, jute, paper, or wool, is much better for the environment. Or, if you can get hold of large brown cardboard boxes for free, these make a great soil cover when flattened, with all tape removed, and laid with the edges overlapping. Come spring, just add the cardboard to your compost heap, or place soil or compost over it and plant directly into that.

• Buy biodegradable weed membrane from British Hardwood

Watch now, for Alan’s guide to tidying your garden in winter.

Tidying the garden in winter: transcript

The winter months are the one time of year when you feel that you can move faster than nature. It's a time to catch up, to try and beat nature at her own game. But unless you're particularly assiduous, she can sneak up on you.

There you are coming out for an armful of clay pots, what do you find? Snails hibernating at the moment quite quietly there, but you don't want to leave them, because come this spring, they'll start munching everything. What you do is entirely up to you. Me, I've never been able to crunch a snail underfoot, so I know they've got a
homing instinct, but there's a big wall and the country lane on the other side. That's what I do (tosses snail over the hedge). And then I take my pots away and wash them.

There's nothing worse than spring arriving and discovering all your pots are filthy. Oh, well, they'll just have to do. You know, you're carrying on disease with things like this if you leave them looking mucky, and you start potting things and sowing seeds in that come the spring. So, wash them - warm soapy water and with plastic
pots like this, one of these little kitchen scrubbers is quite good. You can soak the pot to soften that caked on compost inside and then just quite assiduously, clean it all off inside and out, to make sure that there's as little old compost on there as possible. Why? Well, fungal spores, bacteria and all kinds of pests and diseases can lurk in that muck. So when you've got it all cleaned off like that and it's rinsed, just leave it on the staging or
somewhere to dry.

And when it comes to clay pots like this one, same applies. These aren't quite so good, these scrubbers. You can get a kitchen scrubbing brush like that. It's a good idea, actually, to be honest, to soak your pots, the clay pots particularly, for an hour or so before you clean them. One of these will do. But if you really want to be posh
and clever, then these proper pot washing brushes are wonderful and you can use them outside as well as in. And again, when you've got it all off, do that trick of standing them and letting them drain.

If you're using crocks, and remember when you're using a crock in a pot. The important thing is it's always that way over the hole so it doesn't block the hole. It stops compost from blocking it and allows free drainage. But these need to be washed, too. So, I mean, life's too short to wash a crock, isn't it? But it really is worthwhile.
And there are nicer jobs to do as well, of course, like perusing your seed catalogues by the light of a log fire, with a lovely warming mug of tea. And when you've done that, you can go outside again.

If you want to make sure you can get on the soil as early as possible with sowings come spring, then the way to do it, is to cover it right now with thick black polythene like this. What this does, is to warm the soil up, not a tremendous amount of degrees, but enough to enable you to get on there rather earlier because you're keeping
a lot of the rain off. So it's not quite so wet, which means it's not quite so cold. And the blackness of this absorbs heat and so prepares that soil just that little bit earlier. It means you can get out there and get sowing quicker than you could on bare soil. And for the implements that you're going to be using, make sure they're all in fine fettle. Things like hoes need to be sharpened. All your tools need to be cleaned of mud. And that way you
can make sure that when you come to use them, if they're oiled and ready and hanging on the wall, as soon as you take them off and get on the soil, they're ready to use; and you can probably also steal a march on the pheasants.

Winter jasmine is easy to grow and care for. It's usually grown as a climber, trained against sunny walls using galvanised wires.

How to grow winter jasmine

Grow winter jasmine in well-drained soil in full sun. If growing against a wall or fence, train the stems up a trellis or wires, and prune regularly to prevent bald patches appearing. Otherwise grow it over a low hanging wall or in a large pot, where its stems can trail over the sides, to beautiful effect.

Where to grow winter jasmine

Grow winter jasmine in fertile, well-drained soil, in full sun. Plant it above a low growing wall, so it can spill over, or against a taller wall or fence where you can train it up galvanised wires or a trellis. Winter jasmine can be grown in a pot, where, as it would over a low-growing wall, its foliage and flowers will trail over the sides.

How to plant winter jasmine

1. If planting Jasminum nudiflorum to climb against a wall or fence, dig a hole approximately 15cm from the wall, adding a cane to provide support. Otherwise dig a hole as normal
2. Add a sprinkling of mycorrhizal fungi to the planting hole, plant the jasmine and back-fill with soil and water well
3.  Mulch with well-rotted manure or compost

How to care for winter jasmine

Winter jasmine doesn't naturally twine like other jasmines, so if you're growing it up a wall or trellis, you'll need to tie in shoots to the trellis or wires. Prune regularly to maintain its shape and reduce the likelihood of bare patches appearing.

How to propagate winter jasmine

Winter jasmine can be propagated by layering:

1. Take a low-lying branch, remove some leaves and make a shallow cut in the stem to encourage rooting
2. Pin it to the ground using hooked wire, and weigh it down with a brick or stone to ensure the stem has contact with the soil
3. The stem should root within a few months

Winter jasmine: problem solving

Winter jasmine is generally free from diseases.

Aphids can gather on stems and leaf tips. These are usually not a problem and are an important source of food for birds such as house sparrows.

Mealybug can also be spotted on the stems of winter jasmine. Again, these have natural predators and are usually not a problem, but you may consider removing them by hand.

Bare patches can appear due to a lack of pruning. Pruning regularly will ensure the shrub stays compact and bare patches don't appear.

Winter jasmine varieties to try

Jasminum nudiflorum – the bright evergreen stems and zingy yellow flowers put on a good show in winter. It also makes a good backdrop and companion for other later flowering climbers, such as clematis. The Royal Horticultural Society has given it the Award of Garden Merit (AGM)

• Buy Jasminum nudiflorum from Crocus

Jasminum nudiflorum ‘Aureum’ – this variegated variety has unusual cream and green foliage, which complement its striking yellow blooms

• Buy Jaminum nudiflorum 'Aureum' from Pippin Plants

You can also add bursts of seasonal blooms with spring bulbs and tough bedding plants like violas, bush and trailing lobelia, and sweet alyssum. Plant with an eye to the view from indoors as well as out, and enjoy a bonanza of spirit-lifting colour regardless of the conditions you grow them in.

Ajuga reptans

Popularly known as bugle, this low-growing, spreading plant forms rosettes of attractively crinkled leaves in varied colours that include purple, variegated, and tri-coloured. Short stems of bee-attracting mauve flowers appear in spring and summer. An excellent gap-filler for underplanting and for pot edges. Sun or shade. Height x Spread: 15cm x 30cm.

Carex

Forming clumps of slender leaves, some long and arching, others low-growing or even curly, this grass-like sedge comes in many different varieties, with leaf colours that include rusted bronze, green and gold, or yellow and green. Carex are handsome and shapely enough to look good when planted alone and also partner well with many other plants. H x S: 60cm x 60cm.

Euphorbia

Choose smaller species and varieties from this varied plant group for their striking shape, handsome foliage, and lime-yellow flower-like bracts in spring and early summer. Trailing Euphorbia myrsinites, with glaucous leaves and fleshy stems, is a pretty sun-lover for window boxes and pot edges. Bushy Euphorbia x martini has rosettes of green leaves with contrasting dark stems and is good for shade. Multi-coloured ‘Ascott Rainbow’ does best in sun or part shade. Just be aware that the stems, when cut or broken, exude a milky sap that can cause skin irritation and is dangerous if in contact with eyes. H x S: from 15-60cm.

Hardy ferns

Marvellous for shady and windy spots, hardy ferns brighten the gloom with lustrous foliage in different shapes and textures. Wintergreen ferns that keep their leaves though winter include hart’s tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium), soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) and common polypody (Polypodium vulgare). Site in partial or full shade. H x S: from 30cm to 60cm.

Heucheras

The scalloped-edged leaves of these clump-forming perennials come in an astonishing range of colours: dark shades of red, purple and pewter, through to vivid fresh greens, lime, yellow, and orange. Slender ‘wands’ of tiny flowers are borne in summer, which make good cut flowers, too. Site heucheras in sun or partial shade. H x S: 40cm x 40cm.

Ivy

Familiar for its lobed leaves in a wide colour range, ivy (Hedera spp and varieties) is one of the toughest plants you can grow and is fantastically versatile. Use little plants of variegated ivy as gap-fillers in window boxes and pots or send larger-growing ivies upwards. Stems are self-clinging by means of aerial roots, so either allow to grow on a wall or fence, as long as the support is sound and stems are kept trimmed away from window frames and gutters. Or train onto a trellis, obelisk, or a decoratively shaped framework to make topiary shapes. H x S: variable, according to support size.

Rosemary

Rosemary is resilient to sun and rain but may struggle in very windy environments. Recently renamed from Rosmarinus to Salvia, though still often sold under its old name, rosemary comes in both trailing and upright forms. Stems are clad with needle-like dark green leaves, plus pretty, blue, bee-attracting flowers. These are borne mainly in summer, but sometimes even appear in winter. Trailing Salvia rosmarinus Prostrata Group grows in hanging curtains of stems, while Salvia rosmarinus is bushy and upright. Site in full sun and shelter. H & S: 70cm x 70cm.

Sage

Another invaluable kitchen herb that needs a bit of shelter, sage is popular for its aromatic oval leaves. If harvesting for cooking is your main aim, grow the green-leaved Salvia officinalis which is most productive. Or, for maximum ornament, opt for the purple, gold, or tri-coloured leaf forms. Sage is best trimmed two or three times a year to encourage fresh good-looking foliage, or just trim occasionally and enjoy purple-mauve flowers in summer that insects love. Grow in full sun and ensure good drainage. H x S: 60cm x 60cm.

Thyme

Yet another herb that both looks good and tastes great. As with sage, the green-leaved common thyme (Thymus vulgaris), which is bushy in habit, is best for use in cooking, though all thymes are edible. Depending on species and variety, growth can be ground-hugging and spreading, or low and bushy, with tiny leaves that are green, gold, or silver. Clusters of tiny flowers, borne in summer, are popular with bees. Grow in full sun and ensure good drainage. H x S: 30cm x 30cm.

Viola

This pansy relative has charming little blooms, borne through winter when weather conditions are favourable, on plants which are usually small and bushy, or sometimes trailing. Choose from lots of pretty colours such as blue, yellow, mauve, pink, white, and orange. Deadheading encourages more blooms to be produced, though is quite a fiddly job. The violas which are sold for winter bedding tend to be short-lived, so plant these ones fresh each year for a reliable display in containers or choose perennial species such as the horned violet (Viola cornuta) or fragrant sweet violet (Viola odorata). H x S: 30cm x 30cm.

Winter heathers

The best species of these bone-hardy little winter-flowering plants to grow in pots is Erica carnea, which has the most compact growth of the different winter-flowering heathers. Forming low cushions of dense stems clothed with tiny leaves – usually green, sometimes gold or orange-tinted – and bearing many little flowers in colours including purple, pink, mauve, and white. Site in sun or partial shade and grow in open free-draining compost. H x S: 15cm x 45cm.

Spring bulbs

Enjoy pops of colourful blooms from January onwards, choosing different types for a succession of flowers. Start with snowdrops and aconites, then move on to dwarf narcissus and grape hyacinth. Either plant dry bulbs in autumn, tucked between or under other plants, or buy small pots of ready-grown bulbs in bud or flower and squeeze them into gaps, or use to fill new containers. H x S: varied.